Tagore's Himalayan Abode! - RABINDRA BHAVAN, Mungpoo.

Updated: Dec 8, 2021

“Dariye acho tumi amar gaaner o parey…..” - Thy standing beyond the lines of my song!

Rabindra Sangeet and Rabindra Nath Tagore is well known by all of us. A lot of literature pilgrims visit Shantiniketan to pay their tribute to the immortal poet. But a lot of literature enthusiasts are unaware of Tagore’s residence at Mungpoo.

This bungalow in Mungpoo, is a little known Himalayan village cloistered in the hills of north Bengal which used to be the much loved summer retreat of our Nobel laureate, Rabindranath Tagore. It was 1938 when Tagore first stepped into this house accepting a special invitation from Maitreyi Devi who was the daughter of his friend and was herself a renowned novelist. Her novel “Mungpoo te Rabindranath” (English translation - Tagore by the fireside) is in itself a lucid example of how gracefully Tagore lived his days there.

The Poet instantly fell in love with the place the very moment he stepped in. Quaint and tranquility was something that attracted him the most about this new Himalayan residency. He loved spending his last few days in Mungpoo where he usually sat in the courtyard staring at the mesmerizing nature ending up contributing more to his timeless creations. It is believed that he created “Chelebelar kotha” “Sanaai” “Akash Pradeep” and many more master pieces while his stay-cation in Mungpoo. The house overlooked those slouching cinchona plantations and a quinine factory which was administered by Maitreyi Devi’s husband, Dr. Monomohon Sen, who was a quinologist and the director of the factory at that time.

Delighted by the presence of the beloved poet, the locals celebrated his 80th birthday on Maitreyi Devi’s insistence, overwhelmed by which he wrote a new poem “Janmadiney” (on a birthday) which was even broadcasted in the all India Radio. For the first time ever “pochise boisakh” (his birth date according to the bengali calander) was introduced to the hills.

“ It was my birthday

Praying in the morning

I opened my sight to the rising horizon,

And saw the rained-dawn

Depicted a delineation of sandal light

On the delicate ice-white brow of the Himalayas.

That space at the heart of the whole world

I saw that form

Upon the throne of Himalayas.”

- (few lines from his poem "janmadinery")

He visited this place four times from 1938 to 1940. During the upcoming Autumn he wanted to revisit this place again but unfortunately that Autumn when Mungpoo would be visited by it’s favorite habitué somewhere froze in time. 1940 was the last year which saw Tagore’s last visit to Mungpoo. His departed soul left behind bunches of memories and several of his invaluable worldly goods at that Himalayan abode. Of which few are his mahogany writing desk, a living evidence of his incomparable creations, a half-worn cushion still kept on his chair, the brushes which were once dipped in his choice of colors are now dust laden, the fireplace which blistered more with his presence lies unlit forever now. Few of his memoirs such as his photographs and paintings which are framed and hung on the white walls, some of his hand written poems and proses are preserved in several wooden chests.

Apart from being a novelist he believed in designing his own usable, which were carved accordingly by his son Rathindra Nath. He designed his writing desk and chair, his own bed which had a very unique backrest, and also the bath space (which was a jaw dropping architectural excellence of that time) which had different channels for the inlet of hot and warm water, a soap case and a hand rest.

The huge “Saptaparni” tree (named by Tagore after it’s seven leaves coming out from one stem) still stands with pride as it found mention in the poet’s creations (Nabajatak). Tagore's small worship room, which he called "upasana griha" just has few bricks left!

The Camellia flowers were the poet’s favorite. So much so that he made them spread their essence all over the world by writing a poem on them- “Camellia”

‘I’ll give you something to remember us by – A flowering plant.’ Such a nuisance. I was silent. Tanuka said, ‘A rare, expensive plant, Needs a lot of care to survive on our soil.’ ‘What’s it called?’ I asked. ‘Camellia,’ she answered. I was startled – Another name flashed in the darkness of my mind. I smiled. ‘Camellia.

- (few lines from the poem "Camellia")

Later on, his bungalow was converted into a museum which is visited by several visitors who not only pay homage to our enduring poet but also to a person who has a soft corner for aesthetics and literature. A caretaker named Sishir takes care of the bhavan, who is though a Nepali but keeps on humming "Rabindra Sangeet" and recites Tagore's poems more often than even a poet’s die heart fan would. he sings beautifully and I felt so overwhelmed to join him in singing "Dariye acho tumi amar gaaner oparey" . he can give real complex to any Bengali I tell you! He inherited this from his grandfather who had a fortune to carry Tagore by a palanquin popularly known as “palki” in Bengali. These palkis were the then favorable and traditional mode of transport as there weren’t any proper road paved out to reach Mungpoo back then.

“The person who has shown light to the entire world, is kept in darkness today as his very own house remains in darkness after every sunset. Even after repeated requests the government remains inattentive towards restoring electricity in this Bhavan.” were the most disheartening lines uttered by Sisir da.